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The GLK that twists and turns through those narrow European byways in TV ads is a well-appointed piece of fine art with craftsmanship worthy of the Mercedes-Benz name.

Each body panel is finely sculpted, making it the hands-down fashion leader in the SUV segment.

But while the GLK is stately and elegant, especially in a regal steel gray, a $720 couture treatment, the actual size is jarring.

The GLK is a baby Benz, a compact SUV roughly the size of a Ford Escape.

We tested the 2010 Mercedes GLK350, a new model that went on sale here in January. It provides low-cost admission to everything a Benz has to offer-except size.

“The GLK was conceived to provide a entry point to the Mercedes-Benz brand to help conquest new customers, a strategy we deployed with the new C-Class sedan,” said Mercedes spokesman Rob Moran.

In other words, C-Class, which starts at $35,000, is to sedans what the $35,000 GLK is to utes.

GLK teams a 3.5-liter, 24-valve, 268-horsepower V-6 with a 7-speed automatic. You have a choice of rear- or all-wheel-drive, 4Matic in Benz-ese. We tested the GLK350 4Matic, which starts at $35,900, or $2,000 more than the RWD model.

Standard stability and traction control keep you planted on the pavement. 4Matic is a bonus in deep snow. The SUV also comes with what Mercedes calls an active safety system and speed-sensitive power steering for precise handling. It means the GLK acts like a luxury sedan-refined.

In typical driving along moderately rolling roads or at low speeds off-road, the suspension uses a softer touch to keep occupants comfortable. Floor it, and the suspension switches to a firmer setting for stable handling. Standard 19-inch all-season radials complete the package.

Ride and handling are pleasant for a compact SUV.

The 3.5-liter V-6 is silent, in keeping with the luxury image, but has more muscle than a compact needs. So much for mileage, a disappointing 16 m.p.g. city/21 m.p.g. highway. A diesel would help. Mercedes offers its clean-burning BlueTec in the GLK in Europe that it would like to bring here. Stay tuned.

Tucked into the GLK are two rows of seats for five; the three rows for seven are left to the larger ML-Class. The cabin feels a tad snug, mostly in back, where there’s not much leg and knee room. Indents in the backs of the front seats would help the knees, at least. Large wheel wells also eat into the entry/exit space in back.

The cargo hold can hold luggage for a couple, but it would be tight for a small family. Rear seats fold flat to expand the space when needed, but at the expense of family room. A power hatchlid makes loading/unloading less of a chore, but it’s available only in the $3,150 premium package.

There’s a 115-volt power outlet and a 12-volt power plug in the cargo-hold walls, along with a netted, mini-stowage compartment in the sidewall and a small tray along the floor. The cargo hold also has several tie-down hooks to keep gear from moving around.

Nice touches include a cell phone holder and a deep stowage compartment under the center armrest. There’s a power moonroof, also in the premium package, with slide-open glass over driver and passenger and fixed glass over the rear seat; power shades cover both.

However, the GLK has a maddening shortcoming. When slipping the driver’s safety belt into the latch, it’s easy to open the armrest cover. Move that button, please.

The GLK350 4Matic starts at $35,900 and includes dual-zone climate control, side-curtain air bags, AM/FM radio with weather channel, CD player, power seats/windows/locks/mirrors and tilt and telescoping steering wheel.

Options, including navi and entertainment systems along with that premium package, ran a hefty $12,610, making the small-in-size GLK large in price.

Read Jim Mateja Sunday in Rides. Contact him at transportation@tribune.com.