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Some cars are an acquired taste. Consider the 2008 BMW 535xi sedan. It seems equipped to appeal to any affluent shopper. It is a four-wheel-drive, high-performance, premium luxury sedan.

“Premium luxury” means it is at the top of the luxury class. It has everything: maximum active safety to help avoid a crash; maximum passive safety to increase chances of survival should a crash occur. It is plush, the motorized equivalent of an exclusive condominium. It is prestigious.

And BMW, through praiseworthy engineering, has brought the 535xi to the United States without a federal gas-guzzler tax–an assessment ranging from $1,000 to $7,700, applied exclusively to new cars, depending on how far they fall below a highway mileage standard of 22.5 miles per gallon.

The biggest penalty is attached to cars that get less than 12.5 mpg. The money is collected by the Internal Revenue Service from manufacturers, which then collect it from you.

The 535xi gets 25 mpg on the highway. That’s not great by the standards of people who measure a car’s value by how close it can get to the moon on an ounce of fuel. But the 535xi is nobody’s Toyota Prius. It is a twin-turbocharged, 300-horsepower, in-line six-cylinder runner. You don’t buy it for its supple leather upholstery. You buy it for speed, for the way it sticks to the road rain or shine. It is an epicure’s delight.

But not everyone who can afford the 535xi will want it. And some of those who purchase it could suffer a debilitating case of buyer’s remorse. Getting to know the 535xi isn’t easy, which makes getting to love it difficult. That is not a good thing for automotive retail relationships, which thrive on immediate gratification the way many spiritual relationships thrive on prayer.

The problem stems from the same thing that makes the 535xi such a good car — technology. Detractors believe there is too much of it, that the car is unnecessarily and overwhelmingly complicated.

For those of us in the business of automotive journalism who drive hundreds of new vehicles annually and who often are eager to play with the latest gizmo, motorized techno-anxiety is easy to miss, or to misunderstand.

For example, my associate Ria Manglapus and I found no problems with the 535xi. We were in horsepower heaven. “Smooth ride, great handling and comfortable for all of the folks I hauled,” Ria said. “I can’t seem to find any complaints with it.”

I agreed — until I brought the car to some people, including one family member who insists on not being named in this space, who actually could afford to buy it.

Several of the Truly Affluent Types (TATs) were disturbed by the 535xi’s electronic, six-speed Steptronic automatic transmission, which can be operated four ways — “Drive,” for shifting in the manner of a regular automatic transmission; “Sport,” for more spirited, semiautomatic shifting; “Steptronic,” for manual shifting without a clutch; and what might be called “paddle drive,” for manual shifting via “paddle shifters” on the steering wheel, obviating the need for the fancy gearshift lever on the floor-mounted, center console.

“This is crazy!” said the TAT family member. “Why do I need four ways to drive one car? I don’t like this!”

Similar comments came from other disgruntled TATs.

“Oh,” said one. “It’s a push-button ignition car. Neat! I like that.”

And then I pointed out that he could also insert the electronic key in the ignition lock, twist it in the conventional manner, and start the car.

“Why?” he asked. “Why do I need two ways to start the car?”

I could go on. But it’s enough to say that, even with substantial improvements and simplification, BMW’s iDrive Controller remains a disincentive for some prospective buyers.

The controller, a large round knob behind the electronic gearshift lever, controls a variety of information, entertainment and comfort systems. Think of it as a computer mouse, which is exactly why some prospective buyers didn’t like it.

It seems that some people who spend all day in front of computers making a living don’t want to drive one in pursuit of living the life they’ve made. Is it all too much of a good thing? Assignment for BMW executives: Discuss among yourselves.

NUTS & BOLTS 2008 BMW 535xi Complaints: Detractors say the car suffers from a technological overload. Drive, acceleration and handling: If you can find a premium luxury sedan with better ride and handling, buy it. Acceleration? It’s fast enough to get you into trouble quickly, especially in Virginia, which has significantly increased fines and other penalties for speeding and reckless driving. Head-turning quotient: Powerful, rich, decisive, edgy, which means it has little appeal for people who desire something more poetic, romantic or sensual. Body style/layout: The 2008 BMW 535xi is a premium luxury, mid-size sedan with a traditional notchback trunk. It is all-wheel-drive with a rear-wheel-drive bias, keeping with BMW’s sports car orientation. Engine/transmission: The 535xi comes with a three-liter, twin-turbocharged, in-line six-cylinder engine that develops 300 horsepower at 5,800 revolutions per minute and delivers 300 foot-pounds of torque over an impressively wide band, from 1,400 to 5,000 rpm. The engine is mated to an electronic six-speed automatic transmission that also can be shifted manually. A more traditional six-speed manual transmission with clutch is available. Capacities: There is seating for five. Luggage capacity is 14 cubic feet. The fuel tank holds 18.5 gallons of required premium unleaded gasoline. (If you don’t want to pay for premium gas, don’t buy this car.) Mileage: Our real-world highway mileage, carrying kit and kin with air conditioner running and entertainment systems on, was 23 miles per gallon. Safety: Standard equipment includes anti-lock brakes, side and head air bags, electronic traction and stability control, rigid body construction. Price: Base price on the 2008 BMW 535xi is $51,600. Dealer’s invoice price on the base model is $47,470. Price as tested is $61,825, including $9,450 in options (leather seats, garage opener, special lighting, electronically contoured front seats, sport steering wheel, onboard navigation, premium sound system with high definition radio, rear proximity warning monitor, cold weather package) and a $775 destination charge. Dealer’s price as tested is $56,840. Dealer’s price as tested is $36,119. Prices are sourced from Infiniti and www.edmunds.com. Purse-strings note: Compare with the Acura RL, Infiniti M35, Lexus GS 350, Mercedes-Benz E-Class.