Used Volkswagen cars for sale near Vevay, IN under $899,990

Very easy and pressure free.Dealing with Johnny was awesome. Second car I’ve bought from him.

This vehicle met the needs we were looking for. Drives well has sport mode for when I’m in a nascar driver mood! All around pretty good vehicle.

Good staff and service . I recommend this auto sales .not so expensive and friendly, and good coffee in office.

I was initially looking for a used Golf, but the more I looked at the Beetle the more I liked it. When I found the one I ended up buying, it was love at first drive. This little car packs a punch with the 2.0T, and will throw you back in your seat. It’s an absolute blast to drive. Handles well around town and on the interstate, where it could easily get one in trouble since it wants to GO. The same engine as is found in the GTI, so this should be unsurprising. Easily gets 30+mpg on the highway when cruising along, typically around 20-25 city. These cars handle city driving just fine, but they are meant for the freeway in my opinion. I find the interior to be quite luxurious. Heated leather seats (not available in the Golf) with plenty of storage compartments. Not many frills, just a sleek and mostly practical dash. The trunk is big enough for grocery runs, and the rear seats fold forward for larger loads. It’s not going to haul large appliances or furniture, although it could possibly carry some bigger stuff on a roof rack. The Fender audio system is impressive, wouldn’t change a thing about it except it could benefit from an updated head unit with CarPlay. This hasn’t been an issue for me. I think the car is a real looker, it turns heads and has drawn the occasional compliment. My used model had some imperfections, but it’s still a great looking car that I want to look after and keep for as long as I can. It feels well built, the doors close with the satisfying weighty thud of a premium vehicle. Overall, I am very happy with my 2013 beetle. It’s not only fun, but it seems to be reliable with a couple caveats that some owners might not be aware of. The 2.0T engine is designed for premium fuel, using regular will eventually damage it. The 2.5 can run regular, but I believe the 1.8T will also want premium. The reason for this is lower octane fuel will cause detonation in these high compression engines. If you don’t know what detonation is, just know it’s bad. The oil needs changed more regularly than the manufacturer recommended 10k miles. 5k to be safe, 7k at a stretch. This is especially true for higher mileage vehicles. Speaking of stretch, there is a known issue with some 2.0T engines where the timing chain stretches over time and many miles, so if buying used that’s something I’d have a mechanic check out. This is an expensive maintenance item, but IF it’s needed, getting it done along with the tensioner and a new water pump for good measure will ensure that the new to you Beetle is reliable for many years and miles to come. The other issue is carbon build up. Getting it cleaned out is not as spendy as the timing chain but it’s also not a cheap fix. I believe this can largely be avoided by using top tier fuel (it contains detergents that help with this) as well as regular oil changes and some regular spirited driving. Would not recommend this car to someone who mainly does town or city driving, the 2.5 engine might be better suited for that. According to my research, the 2.5 is quite bulletproof BUT it’s not good for any engine to be driven at low RPM all the time.

We found a [surprisingly] sought-after example of a Honda Element at Midwest Auto, for our son - four hours away from our home. A 22yr old car, with over 100k miles on the odo. I expected a decent car with some issues, for what I paid. Instead, I got the cleanest Vtec the local, mobile mechanic had ever seen. He climbed all over that car for 1.5 hours and thoroughly drove and code tested it - both past/recent codes and “likely fail” codes. I have a four year old, bought-new minivan that wouldn’t have tested that clean. I drove the four hours home with no trepidation whatsoever. I feel like I stole this car. The mechanic told me that he sees a lot of “good cars” come out of Midwest. Not only was the sale easy, no-pressure and quick, (as we knew what we wanted), they were accommodating and incredibly friendly. I’ve owned a lot of cars and after what I experienced, I would buy from this dealer sight-unseen and ship with no fear. ANY used car WILL have some issues - new ones do now! - but this one doesn’t need anything but what anyone should do for any car. It’s getting a fresh alignment and a new battery. That’s it. This is easily the cleanest decades-old ride I’ve ever bought. Five stars.

This was one of my favorite cars I test drove, but also one of the base models. It has a huge trunk and tons of room for a car seat or 2. Gets an average of 38-40mpg which is awesome for my driving to and from work.

I bought my 2013 VW Tiguan S in 2015 when it had 20k miles on it. I had all the fluids changed (brake, transmission,engine oil, coolant). I drove it In Houston Tx commuting for 2.5 years and then have been driving it since then in Austin around town and on a few long trips. I frequently had brake fluid, engine oil and other fluids exchanged at dealerships).At around 100k when more complex maintenance issues arose, I abandoned the VW dealer shops for Brink Motorsports in Austin, Tx, a shop that specializes in the Audi/VW group. Working with them I did the following. Replaced 16" VW wheels with 18" VW CC used wheels and oversized Michelin Defenders. Added a 2" Forge lift kit on the rear suspension as well as Bilstein B6 struts and shocks. I replaced spark plugs and coil paks at around 110k due to misfires and also replaced the timing chain , the intake valves and manifold decarboned, the water pump replaced, a 2" trailer hitch and wiring harness installed, a new windshield installed (rock chips), and an APR Stage I chip installed, all by Brink Motorsports. Because of the bigger, better wheels and tires and suspension lift and Bilstein B6 upgrades, the car is slightly raked forward, is taller by 2" or so, has igreat grip and turn in on handling and takes off like a scalded cat at middle and highway speeds. It is an absolute rocket ship and a troll for Toyota and Honda tailgaters , can be driven with a very light touch on the throttle and the K&N filter allows a little more throttle sound to penetrate the cabin. I describe it as a "VW GTi on stilts" although frankly, against a stock VW GTi or Tiguan this vehicle is quicker (and those vehicles are no slouches with the stock 2.0 turbo engine). The car is at GTi or Tiguan R levels of performance . The lift and wheel/tire combo give the vehicle the aggressive stance it lacks from the factory. I have not spent any money on body kits as it doesn't need it. Now it's at 130k and I still enjoy it. I DID have a VW anti rattle clip installed on the turbo waste gate actuator as this slight sound is common to the VW KO3 after some mileage. Eventiually , that part will rattle itself to death and the turbo will fail. To pre empt that, I am considering a new turbo installation , however the parts and shop cost have so far prevented me from acting on that idea. A new spring actuated diverter valve has been excellent in preventing boost leak. A new PCV valve (twice) has also helped. After half a dozen brake fluid changes over the years, the brakes are still running the original pads, rotors and wheel brake cylinders with no leaks and only an. occasional cold brake in reverse squeal. IF, I want to keep it running like it does now, pads and rotors will require replacement in the coming few years. In summary, it has been an enjoyable , quick ride after the upgrades, as opposed to the slightly less enjoyable stock experience. I highly recommend the APR chip. Stage 1 runs great with the stock exhaust and gives you close to 320 ft/lbsd of torque in the mid 3000 rpm range and similar hp numbers at the top end of the rpm range. The DSG shifter, although not lightning quick, is quite reliable if you want to drive it in manual shifter mode from time to time.(Or start in second gear). For best acceleration times upshift at 3500 rpm to stay in the maximum torque band. Revving it above that when accelerating places you on the decreasing torque side of the power curve, which is notably slower than the max torque at 3000-3500 side of the torque curve)..so a little common sense helps here with that issue. High rpms are neither necessary OR the fastest when accelerating. When you start running out of torque at 130-140 mph you're going to fast anyway. Time to slow down. It's fast to 120 plus on a 60 mph rolling start. Care has to be taken driving the car just because of the very high top end acceleration capabilities. Holding the hammer down at highway speed takes you triple digits quickly.