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If you can’t beat ’em, baffle ’em. That’s what Subaru has done with its Outback sport-utility station wagons.

The ’97 Impreza Outback sport wagon we tested is that comfortable pair of shoes you don’t dare wear in public, a vehicle so ugly it has become a cult machine for those who don’t care what a car looks like as long as it works.

When Twin No. 2 spotted it, she asked: “When did they start making Gremlinsagain?”

Though no fashion statement, the Impreza Outback performs well in that the 2.2-liter, 137-h.p., 4-cylinder engine is fairly responsive while delivering 23 m.p.g. city/30 m.p.g. highway when teamed with 4-speed automatic.

The car is roomy front and rear. The hatch lid opens wide for storing more cargo. A clever plastic tray covers the rear cargo floor to keep dirt or spills off the carpet and packages from rolling, and rear seat backs fold flatto increase stowage even more.

Then, too, you get dual air bags, four-wheel anti-lock brakes and all-wheel-drive as standard for safety and security, especially on wet or snow-covered roads.

You also get a wealth of standard equipment, including roof rack, all-season 15-inch tires, air conditioning, power door locks/mirrors/windows, AM/FM stereo with cassette and clock and rear-window washer/wiper.

You get all that for a base price of $17,995 (plus a hefty $800 for automatic) plus $495 for freight.

Outback is a practical, functional, roomy, comfortable, fuel-efficient, inexpensive cargo hauler with the most in-demand safety features and all-wheel-drive for year-round motoring.

However, you just might want to leave the car cover on when driving it.